Plant-based oils, hydrosols, and clay powders have been used in skincare for centuries. This is not due to marketing, but because their natural compositions inherently align with the skin's biological needs. In this guide, we explain how each ingredient type works, what you can realistically expect from them, and how to combine them into a simple, effective routine—backed by science, without exaggerated therapeutic claims.
1. What is natural skincare?
The term 'natural' is one of the most widely used in cosmetics, yet remains one of the least regulated. In practice, it refers to ingredients derived from plants, flowers, nuts, seeds, or minerals that have undergone minimal chemical processing. Examples include cold-pressed oils, distilled hydrosols, and purified clay powders.
However, 'natural' is not an automatic badge of quality. An ingredient's origin, extraction method, and storage conditions heavily dictate how effectively it performs on the skin. For instance, a cold-pressed, organic rosehip oil has a fundamentally different nutrient profile than a highly refined, heat-processed alternative, even though both carry the same 'rosehip oil' label.
At More Natural, we adhere to a straightforward philosophy: clean, transparent ingredients, honest information, and quality over quantity. We believe in explaining exactly how an ingredient works, without exaggerated promises or understating its real benefits.
Under EU cosmetic regulations, skincare products are not permitted to make therapeutic or medical claims. However, we can explain how an ingredient supports skin comfort, maintains moisture balance, and improves overall skin condition. We strictly adhere to these guidelines across all of our products and education.
2. Plant oils and the skin barrier
The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is primarily composed of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. This protective lipid network locks in moisture, blocks external irritants, and maintains a soft, comfortable complexion. When this barrier is compromised, the skin loses moisture more rapidly and becomes highly vulnerable to environmental stressors, cleansers, and temperature shifts.
Pure botanical oils are primarily composed of fatty acids that are structurally compatible with the skin's natural lipids. Consequently, they align beautifully with the needs of your skin barrier. They act as natural occlusives: a thin layer of oil slows down the evaporation of moisture from your skin (known as transepidermal water loss, or TEWL). It is important to note that oils do not add water-based hydration on their own; instead, they lock in the moisture that is already present.
This is a critical distinction. For optimal results, always apply a water-based product first—such as a pure hydrosol—followed by your facial oil while the skin is still slightly damp. This sequence allows the oil to effectively seal the hydration in. Read our guide on how to use facial oil for a complete step-by-step approach.
Why different oils behave differently
The natural composition varies significantly from one plant oil to another, and can even change based on harvest and region. Jojoba oil is technically composed of liquid wax esters rather than traditional fatty acids, allowing it to closely mimic the structure of natural human sebum and making it exceptionally well tolerated. Argan oil is rich in oleic acid and vitamin E, giving it a deeply nourishing, richer texture. Rosehip oil features a high linoleic acid profile, which is highly valued for promoting a more even-looking complexion.
Selecting the right oil depends entirely on your skin type and its specific needs. We cover this in detail in the next section.
3. The role of fatty acids: matching oil to your skin
The benefits of a plant oil are largely determined by its fatty acid profile. Each fatty acid behaves differently: some are lightweight and absorb rapidly, while others provide a richer, protective seal. This unique balance dictates which oil is best suited to specific skin types and concerns.
| Fatty Acid | Effect on the Skin | Best Suited For | Richly Found In |
|---|---|---|---|
| Linoleic acid (omega-6) | Lightweight texture; supports barrier function and is highly tolerated | Oily, acne-prone, and sensitive skin | Rosehip oil, hemp seed oil |
| Oleic acid (omega-9) | Richer feel; deeply nourishing, absorbs slightly slower | Dry and mature skin | Argan oil, avocado oil, macadamia oil |
| Alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3) | Lightweight; supports skin balance and resilience | Combination and sensitive skin | Hemp seed oil, rosehip oil |
| Palmitic acid | Reinforces barrier strength and shields the lipid layer | Mature and dry skin | Avocado oil, baobab oil |
| Liquid wax esters (jojoba) | Mimics natural sebum; exceptionally well tolerated and non-comedogenic | All skin types | Jojoba oil |
As a general rule: dry and mature skin thrives with plant oils rich in oleic acid, while oily and acne-prone skin benefits most from lightweight, linoleic acid-rich options. Sensitive skin is best supported by highly stable, biocompatible formulas that carry a minimal risk of irritation, such as jojoba or black cumin seed oil. You can explore a detailed analysis in our comprehensive oil guide by skin type.
4. Quality, oxidation, and storage
Pure botanical oils are susceptible to oxidation—the chemical process where fatty acids react with oxygen and break down. Oxidized oils develop a rancid odor, lose their natural efficacy, and can easily cause skin irritation. Therefore, the overall quality of an oil is determined not just by the raw materials, but heavily by its extraction method, packaging, and storage.
Cold-pressed versus refined
Cold pressing involves mechanically extracting oils from seeds or nuts without using external heat. This gentle method preserves the natural antioxidants, vitamins, and unique botanical compounds. In contrast, refined oils undergo chemical or high-heat processing that may extend shelf life, but destroys a significant portion of these beneficial nutrients. For topical skincare, More Natural consistently prioritizes cold-pressed, certified organic oils.
How to store your plant oils
- Keep them in a cool, dark place with the cap tightly closed. Avoid leaving them on humid bathroom countertops.
- Opt for dark amber glass bottles, which protect the formula from light far better than clear glass or plastic.
- Use opened bottles within 6 to 12 months.
- A sharp, rancid odor is a clear sign of oxidation; do not apply oxidized oils to your skin.
Tip: Always apply your facial oil while your skin is still damp from your hydrosol. You will need far less product, and the lipids will seal in the essential hydration much more effectively.
5. Hydrosols: what they are and how to use them
Hydrosols, also known as hydrolats or floral waters, are the watery byproducts of steam distillation. During this process, steam passes through plant material, carrying along water-soluble aromatic and bioactive compounds into the condensation water. The result is a delicate, aromatic plant water featuring a slightly acidic pH that matches the skin's natural acid mantle (pH 4.5 to 5.5).
Hydrosols are fundamentally different from commercial toners, which frequently contain drying alcohols, synthetic perfumes, or harsh active ingredients. A pure hydrosol is naturally alcohol-free, contains no synthetic additives, and is gentle enough for daily use on even the most sensitive skin. Because the concentration of active plant compounds is milder than in volatile essential oils, they offer a highly safe, soothing daily mist.
Rose water versus lavender water
Bulgarian rose water, steam-distilled from Damascus roses grown in the Rose Valley of Bulgaria, possesses a unique composition and therapeutic aroma that sets it apart from generic rose water. Here, origin is not a marketing claim but vital quality information: the local climate, soil, and traditional distillation methods determine the purity of the final product. Lavender water offers a naturally calming scent and is traditionally used as an exceptionally gentle, balancing skin toner.
How to use a hydrosol
- Apply to your face immediately after cleansing as your first hydrating step.
- Gently sweep over with a cotton pad, or simply mist the skin lightly.
- Apply your facial oil immediately while the skin is still damp to lock in this hydration.
- Can also be used throughout the day as a weightless, refreshing mist.
Read more about its application in our article on why rose water makes the ideal natural toner.
6. Mineral clay powders: ghassoul, bentonite, and pink clay
Clay powders are mineral-rich substances sourced from natural geological deposits. Composed of layered silicate structures, they possess powerful absorbent and adsorbent properties that have been valued in hair and skincare for centuries. The three most popular clay powders in natural skincare vary significantly in strength and compatibility:
Ghassoul (Rhassoul)
Ghassoul is a volcanic clay mined exclusively deep within the Moroccan Atlas Mountains. Rich in silica, magnesium, and potassium, it offers highly effective absorption paired with an incredibly soft texture. Gentler than bentonite, Ghassoul is ideal for normal, combination, and sensitive skin types, and also functions beautifully as a purifying hair rinse.
Bentonite
Bentonite is an incredibly powerful volcanic clay. Upon contact with water, its structure swells like a sponge, allowing it to intensely draw out and absorb excess sebum, deep-seated dirt, and impurities. It is the most intensive of the three clays and is ideal for oily or highly congested skin types as a deep-cleansing mask.
French pink clay
French pink clay is a delicate blend of mineral-rich white kaolin clay and red iron oxides. This results in a very gentle clay with a mild absorption profile, making it highly compatible with normal, dry, and sensitive skin. It is the most accessible choice if you are introducing clay masks to your routine for the first time.
How to prepare and use clay powders
- Mix the clay powder with water or a pure hydrosol to form a smooth, spreadable paste.
- Apply a thin, even layer to clean skin.
- Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water as soon as the clay begins to feel tight. Do not wait for it to dry out completely.
- Incorporate 1 to 2 times a week, depending on your skin type.
- Always soothe and replenish your skin immediately afterward with a hydrosol and facial oil.
Never let a clay mask dry out completely on your face. Once the clay begins to feel firm, its purifying benefits are fully achieved. Allowing it to dry until it cracks will needlessly draw essential moisture out of your skin.
7. The skin microbiome and gentle ingredients
Your skin is home to a complex living ecosystem of bacteria, yeasts, and other microbes known as the skin microbiome. This microflora plays an active role in daily immune defense, barrier maintenance, and overall skin comfort. A disrupted microbiome—often caused by stripping cleansers, overuse of active products, or over-exfoliation—can lead to a highly sensitive, unstable complexion.
Streamlined formulas featuring simple, recognizable ingredients significantly reduce the risk of irritation. The fewer ingredients you apply, the lower the likelihood of pushing your microflora out of balance. Pure botanical oils and hydrosols naturally require no harsh synthetic preservatives or antibacterial agents that can disrupt beneficial skin bacteria. This is why short, transparent ingredient lists are highly recommended for reactive or sensitive skin. Read more in our article on the role of the microbiome in sensitive skin.
8. Common misconceptions
"Natural is always safer than synthetic"
Not automatically. Certain botanical ingredients—such as volatile essential oils or concentrated plant extracts—can trigger allergic reactions or severe irritation on sensitive skin. Conversely, there are highly studied synthetic ingredients that are exceptionally mild. An ingredient's safety is dictated by its chemical nature, concentration, and how it is formulated, not its origin.
"Oils moisturize and hydrate the skin"
Oils are hydrophobic (lipids) and do not contain water; therefore, they cannot actively introduce hydration into the skin. What they do instead is form a protective, occlusive layer that significantly slows down moisture evaporation. True hydration must come from water-based products—such as a pure hydrosol or serum—which should always be applied *before* your facial oil.
"Oils will always clog your pores"
Comedogenicity varies dramatically from one oil to another. Lightweight options like jojoba, rosehip, and hemp seed oil have a very low comedogenic rating and are exceptionally well tolerated, even by acne-prone skin. Conversely, heavy oils with a high oleic acid content (like coconut oil or wheat germ oil) can easily clog pores in certain skin types. Choosing the correct oil for your specific profile is key, rather than avoiding plant oils altogether. Read more in our article on the best facial oil for every skin type.
"Natural products do not expire"
Pure botanical oils formulated without synthetic preservatives are actually far more susceptible to oxidation and degradation. They naturally break down when exposed to light, air, and heat. Always check the Period After Opening (PAO) symbol on the packaging, and store your products in a cool, dark place.
9. Building a gentle routine
A highly supportive skincare routine does not need to be complicated. For most skin types, three simple steps are more than enough: cleansing, hydrating, and sealing with lipids. Minimizing the number of products you apply significantly reduces the risk of cumulative irritation, product overload, or conflicting active ingredients—especially if your skin is dry or sensitive.
Step 1: Cleansing
Select a gentle cleanser that respects and preserves your skin barrier. A high-quality cleanser removes surface impurities and excess oil without leaving your face feeling dry or tight. For dry or sensitive skin types, a nourishing oil cleanser or a mild micellar water is far more suitable than foaming cleansers or alkaline soaps.
Step 2: Hydrosol as a toner
Immediately after cleansing, mist a pure hydrosol onto your face. This introduces lightweight, water-based hydration and preps the skin to absorb the subsequent steps. Opt for rose water for a refreshing, balancing effect, or lavender water for a naturally calming ritual.
Step 3: Botanical oil as a lipid step
Warm 2 to 4 drops of plant oil between your palms and press onto damp skin. The oil seals in the water from your hydrosol and reinforces your lipid barrier. Choose your oil based on your skin type: lightweight and linoleic-rich for oily or acne-prone skin; richer and more nourishing for dry or mature skin.
Weekly treatment: Clay mask
Incorporate a purifying clay mask once or twice a week as a deep-cleansing step. After rinsing, always soothe and restore your skin immediately with your hydrosol and facial oil. To learn more about structuring a routine, explore our complete guides on dry skin and the skin barrier or sensitive skin care.
10. Oils, hydrosols, and clays from More Natural
All botanical products in the More Natural selection are cold-pressed, certified organic, and packaged in dark amber glass bottles to prevent light-induced oxidation.
Pure Hydrosols
100% organic. Steam-distilled from fresh Damascus roses in the Bulgarian Rose Valley.
100% organic. Wonderfully gentle and ideal for daily use on sensitive skin.
Botanical Oils
Rich in oleic acid and vitamin E. Deeply nourishing for both skin and hair.
Rich in linoleic acid. Lightweight in texture, supporting skin balance and recovery.
Rich and deeply nourishing. Packed with vitamin E and palmitic acid; ideal for dry skin.
Lightweight, with a high linoleic acid profile. Highly tolerated by acne-prone skin.
Traditionally used to soothe sensitive skin. Features a unique thymoquinone-rich profile.
Thick, protective, and occlusive. Ideal for hair, brows, and blending with lighter oils.
Rich in palmitoleic acid—a rare, beneficial fatty acid naturally present in skin sebum.
Imparts a dry skin-feel with a balanced profile of omegas 3, 6, and 9. Perfect for dry and mature skin.
A gentle, plant-based alternative to retinol. Mild and highly suitable for sensitive or mature skin.
Mineral Clay Powders
Intensely absorbent. An ideal, deep-cleansing mask for oily or congested skin.
Wonderfully soft and gentle. Highly suitable for sensitive and normal skin types.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a hydrosol and a toner?
A hydrosol is a 100% natural plant water produced during the process of steam distillation. It contains beneficial, water-soluble plant compounds, is completely alcohol-free, and contains no synthetic additives. A toner is a much broader category: it can be a pure hydrosol, but it can also refer to a water-based formula containing added active chemicals, drying alcohols, or synthetic preservatives. A pure hydrosol represents the gentlest, most unadulterated form of a toner.
Which facial oil best suits my skin type?
For dry or mature skin, plant oils rich in nourishing oleic acid work best, such as argan, avocado, and macadamia oil. For oily or acne-prone skin, lightweight, linoleic acid-rich options are a far better choice: jojoba, hemp seed, and rosehip oil. For sensitive skin, jojoba and black cumin seed oil are timeless, gentle options due to their exceptional compatibility and high tolerance.
Do botanical oils clog pores?
Not all oils do. The comedogenic rating—the likelihood of an oil clogging pores—varies dramatically from one oil to another. Lightweight choices like jojoba, rosehip, and hemp seed oil have a very low rating and are well tolerated, even by acne-prone skin. Heavier oils, such as coconut oil, score much higher. Choosing the correct oil for your specific profile is key, rather than avoiding plant oils altogether.
In what order should I use hydrosol, oil, and clay?
The correct baseline sequence is: cleanser, hydrosol, facial oil. Apply your hydrosol immediately after cleansing, followed by 2 to 4 drops of oil while your skin is still damp. This allows the oil to lock in the hydration. A clay mask should be used only periodically as a deep-cleansing step, always *before* your hydrosol and oil, never daily.
How often should I use a clay mask?
For most skin types, once or twice a week is more than enough. For dry or sensitive skin, once a week (or even less) is sufficient. Always rinse the clay mask off as soon as it begins to feel tight on your face; do not wait for it to dry completely. Always follow up immediately with your hydrosol and facial oil.
How do do botanical oils stay fresh?
The shelf life depends on the specific oil. Oils composed of highly stable saturated fatty acids, such as castor oil, remain fresh much longer. Oils rich in delicate polyunsaturated fatty acids, like rosehip or hemp seed oil, are highly sensitive to oxidation and should ideally be used within 6 to 12 months after opening. Always store your oils in a cool, dark place with the cap tightly closed, and check the PAO symbol on the bottle.
