Argan oil has long been praised as a versatile hair oil, and that reputation is well founded. What sets argan oil apart from most other plant oils is not just what it contains, but how those substances work together. The combination of oleic acid, linoleic acid, vitamin E, and squalene makes it one of the few oils that is light enough for fine hair yet nourishing enough for dry, damaged hair. This article explains how that composition works, which hair type argan oil suits best, and how to use it in your routine in practical terms.
1. The composition of argan oil: what it contains
Argan oil is extracted from the nuts of the argan tree, which grows exclusively in the semi-arid regions of southwestern Morocco. One liter of cold-pressed oil requires around 30 kilograms of nuts, which explains the relatively high price of quality argan oil.
The fatty acid composition consists mainly of oleic acid (omega-9, around 43 to 49 percent) and linoleic acid (omega-6, around 29 to 36 percent). This ratio gives argan oil a medium texture: lighter than avocado oil or castor oil, heavier than jojoba oil. Both fatty acids play a role in supporting the lipid layer of the hair and skin.
In addition to fatty acids, argan oil contains a relatively high level of vitamin E (tocopherols) and squalene. These two substances contribute to the stability of the oil and to the way it works on the surface of the hair. For the broader context of how oils work on hair and scalp, see our pillar on hair and scalp health.
2. Squalene: the distinguishing component
Squalene is a substance the human skin produces itself as part of sebum. It is a light, non-greasy hydrocarbon that forms a protective film on the skin’s surface and helps keep the skin supple. As we age, the skin’s own squalene production gradually decreases.
Argan oil is one of the few plant oils with a measurable squalene content. Unlike many other greasy substances, squalene spreads particularly evenly over the hair surface and absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy feel behind. This contributes to the shine and softness people notice after using argan oil on the hair, without making it feel heavy or sticky.
Squalene also has antioxidant properties, which, together with the vitamin E in argan oil, helps protect the hair shaft against oxidative damage from UV radiation and air pollution.
Squalene in cosmetic products is often marketed as "squalane," a hydrogenated (stabilized) form. In argan oil, the non-hydrogenated form, squalene, is present and naturally kept stable by the vitamin E in the oil.
3. Argan oil compared with other hair oils
The position of argan oil relative to the other oils in the range makes it clear why it is so versatile.
| Oil | Texture | Key substances | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Argan oil | Light to medium | Oleic acid, linoleic acid, vitamin E, squalene | Almost all hair types, shaft and scalp |
| Jojoba oil | Very light (liquid wax) | Wax esters | All hair types, including oily or sensitive scalps |
| Avocado oil | Medium | Oleic acid, vitamin E | Dry, thick hair, high porosity |
| Castor oil | Very heavy, viscous | Ricinoleic acid | High porosity, always dilute |
| Macadamia oil | Light | Palmitoleic acid | Fine hair, sensitive scalp |
Argan oil occupies a middle position: lighter than avocado and castor oil, slightly heavier than jojoba and macadamia. That makes it versatile, but it also means that for extremely fine hair it can be a little too heavy if used excessively, and for very dry or chemically damaged hair with high porosity it is sometimes complemented with a richer oil.
4. Which hair type does argan oil work best for?
Argan oil is one of the few oils that can be used broadly because its texture and composition strike a balance. Still, there are hair types for which argan oil is particularly well suited and situations where another choice makes more sense.
Works particularly well for
- Normal to dry hair: the combination of oleic acid and squalene supports the cuticle and adds shine without weighing it down.
- Colored or chemically treated hair: the antioxidants in argan oil help protect the hair shaft after chemical treatments that open the cuticle. More about porosity after treatment can be found in our blog on hair porosity and oils.
- Frizzy hair: the squalene film smooths the cuticle and reduces the frizz effect caused by static electricity and humidity in the air.
- Hair that is regularly heat-styled: argan oil forms a protective layer that slightly limits the direct heat impact on the cuticle.
Less ideal for
- Very fine hair with low porosity: even a small amount of argan oil can quickly flatten fine hair. Jojoba oil or macadamia oil are lighter and better suited here.
- Heavily damaged hair with high porosity that needs intense nourishment: argan oil is a good base but can be supplemented with avocado oil or used in a diluted mix with castor oil as a pre-wash treatment.
5. Use on the hair shaft
On the hair shaft, argan oil works as a protective layer that adds shine. The oil partially penetrates the outer layers of the cuticle but mainly acts as a thin protective film on the hair surface.
As a leave-in on dry hair
The most common application. Warm one to two drops between the palms and distribute through the mid-lengths and ends of dry hair. Do not apply to the roots or scalp unless you have a dry scalp. Start with less than you think you need: argan oil spreads well, and one drop too many already gives a greasy result on fine hair.
As a pre-wash treatment
Apply a larger amount to towel-dried or dry hair, from mid-lengths to ends. Leave on for 20 to 45 minutes and then wash out thoroughly. This is especially useful after exposure to chlorine, salt water, or heat. The oil protects the cuticle during washing and rinses out more easily than heavier oils.
After washing on damp hair
One drop distributed through damp hair before drying helps the cuticle close more smoothly and reduces frizz. Works well as a light heat protectant for blow-drying, although protection is limited at high temperatures above 200 degrees.
6. Use on the scalp
Argan oil is well tolerated on most scalp types. Its light to medium texture leaves no heavy residue and disrupts the sebum balance less than richer, heavier oils. For an oily or irritated scalp, however, jojoba oil is a better choice because of its even lighter texture and composition closer to sebum.
As a pre-wash scalp treatment: apply a small amount, massage in gently, and leave on for 20 to 30 minutes before washing. Rinse thoroughly. Argan oil washes out easily with a mild shampoo, unlike heavier oils such as castor oil. Read more about preventing buildup in our blog on product buildup and hard water.
7. Argan oil and heat protection
Argan oil is often recommended as a natural heat protectant. That is partly true, but it needs nuance. The oil forms a thin film on the cuticle that offers some protection against direct heat transfer at low to medium temperatures. When blow-drying on a medium setting or using a flat iron at 160 to 180 degrees, the oil has a measurable positive effect on the condition of the cuticle.
At higher temperatures above 200 degrees, such as with professional flat irons or curling irons on maximum heat, argan oil alone is not enough protection. In that case, specialized heat protectants with film-forming polymers are more effective. Argan oil can play a supporting role there, but it does not replace them.
Always apply argan oil to damp or dry hair before using heat styling tools, never on a hair surface that is already hot. Oil on a surface above 180 degrees can damage the cuticle further instead of protecting it.
8. Cosmetic vs culinary argan oil
Argan oil comes in two variants with different production methods and uses. Culinary argan oil is made from lightly roasted nuts, which gives it the typical nutty smell and taste but also exposes the oil to higher temperatures during extraction. Cosmetic argan oil is cold-pressed from untreated nuts, which better preserves heat-sensitive components such as squalene and vitamin E.
For hair care, cold-pressed cosmetic argan oil is the right choice. The light nutty scent of good cosmetic argan oil is subtle and disappears quickly after application. A pronounced roasted smell is a sign that the oil was exposed to heat during extraction or has been stored for too long.
9. Products
Organic, cold-pressed. Suitable as a leave-in, pre-wash treatment, and light heat protectant. Suitable for almost all hair types.
Combination of argan oil and avocado oil. Richer than pure argan oil, suitable for dry or damaged hair with high porosity.
Ideal pairing for an intensive pre-wash mix for high porosity. Use in a 1 : 3 castor oil to argan oil ratio.
See the argan oil collection page for all available variants, or the full range of natural oils for the other combination partners.
Frequently asked questions
How much argan oil should you use for hair?
For fine to normal hair, one drop on dry hair is enough, distributed through the mid-lengths and ends. For thick or long hair, use two to three drops. Always start with less than you think you need: argan oil spreads well, and it is easy to reach the point where it feels like too much for most hair types. Warm the oil briefly between your palms first for a more even distribution.
Can you use argan oil every day?
On the hair shaft and ends, a small amount of argan oil can be used daily without problems, as long as the amount is small and the hair does not feel heavy or greasy. On the scalp, daily use is not necessary and is better limited to a pre-wash treatment once or twice a week if the scalp is already sensitive or oily.
What is the difference between argan oil and jojoba oil for hair?
Jojoba oil is chemically made up of liquid wax esters and mimics the composition of sebum. As a result, it is exceptionally light, leaves almost no greasy residue, and is well tolerated even by an oilier scalp. Argan oil consists of triglycerides (fatty acids) and has a slightly heavier texture, but contains squalene and a high level of vitamin E, which contributes to shine and antioxidant protection. Jojoba is better suited to fine hair and sensitive scalps, while argan oil is more versatile for the hair shaft and light protection. Read more about jojoba in our blog on jojoba oil for hair and face.
How long does argan oil last?
Cold-pressed argan oil, stored away from direct light and at room temperature, usually lasts two years unopened. After opening, it is best used within twelve months. The vitamin E in the oil acts as a natural antioxidant and helps slow oxidation. An oil that smells rancid has lost its active properties and is better not used on hair or skin anymore.
Does argan oil also work on a dry scalp?
Yes, argan oil is well tolerated on most scalp types, including a dry scalp. Use it as a pre-wash treatment: apply a small amount to the scalp, massage in gently, and leave on for 20 to 30 minutes before washing. Rinse thoroughly. Argan oil leaves little residue and is therefore easier to remove than richer oils. Read more about a dry scalp in our blog on dry scalp vs flakes.
Is argan oil good for your hair?
Argan oil is known as one of the most widely used oils for hair care. It contains oleic acid, linoleic acid, and vitamin E, and is used to make the hair shaft feel smoother, add shine, and care for the ends of dry hair. It is not a treatment for hair growth or hair loss, but a nourishing oil for the shaft and surface of the hair.
Moroccan oil for hair: is that the same as argan oil?
Moroccan oil informally refers to argan oil, which comes from Morocco. Products calling themselves "Moroccan oil" or "argan oil" often contain argan oil, but not always in pure form. Check the ingredient label: Argania spinosa kernel oil listed as one of the first ingredients means it is present in a high concentration. Our organic cold-pressed argan oil is 100 percent pure.
Argan oil on the scalp: can you use it?
Argan oil can also be applied to the scalp, but it is not a standard recommendation for every scalp. For a dry, flaky scalp, a small amount of argan oil may provide relief. For an oily scalp, argan oil is less suitable because it can disrupt the sebum balance. In that case, apply it only to the hair shaft.
How do you use argan oil on your hair: wet or dry?
Argan oil works on both wet and dry hair, but the timing and amount differ. On wet hair after washing, distribute one to two drops through the shaft to protect the hair film. On dry hair, apply a minimal amount to the ends to reduce dryness. On the scalp, use it sparingly as a scalp treatment.
Argan oil hair experiences: what do users describe?
Users of argan oil in the hair describe shinier and smoother hair after consistent use. The most commonly mentioned applications are protecting the ends, reducing frizz in curly hair, and making bleached or dry hair easier to comb. A common tip is to use less than you think: one to two drops for shoulder-length hair is already enough.
Is argan oil good for bleached or damaged hair?
Bleached hair has an open cuticle and loses moisture and proteins more quickly. Argan oil can act as a nourishing layer that makes the cuticle feel smoother and protects the shaft. However, it does not replenish proteins or repair permanent damage to the hair structure. Use it on still-damp hair after washing for the best results.
How long can argan oil stay in your hair?
Argan oil as a leave-in treatment on the shaft can stay in; there is no maximum time. As a pre-wash treatment on the scalp or as a hair mask, rinse out after thirty to sixty minutes. If you leave it in overnight, cover the hair with a cap or towel to keep the pillowcase clean.
Also see our hair oil range.
